There are the fragrances you know, which usually have the names of familiar designer brands: Gucci by Gucci, Armani Code and so on. And then there is Etat Libre d’Orange. Yes, you read that correctly: the Orange Free State, named after a 19^th century Boer republic in South Africa, now half-forgotten by history.

Today you’ll find this strange state in the Marais district of Paris. It’s a small store that sells perfumes for men and women. The fragrances all have unusual names and even odder packaging.

For instance, Je Suis Un Homme (“I Am a Man”) features an image of an uncompromisingly phallic pistol. Putain de Palaces (“Hotel Slut”) shows a key inserted into a pink keyhole. And I think you can guess what Vraie Blonde (“Real Blonde”) depicts. Our favourite is Jasmine & Cigarette, whose logo is a smoking flower. Other names include Incense & Bubblegum, Virgins & Toreadors and Dark Sleepless Night. One is literally called “Nothing”.

Despite their teasing names, these fragrances have been created by some of the best perfumers in France. And behind them all is Etienne de Swardt, a young man born – surprise, surprise – in South Africa. Arriving in Paris, he got a job at Givenchy. Later he created a perfume for pets called Oh My Dog. 

Now he’s the creator of this funky little brand, which relies for marketing on word of mouth, a great website, a store that’s also a billboard – and a growing band of cult followers. By the way, the store is also a bookshop where you can buy Taschen tomes or collections of erotic pinups. On the window is the brand’s slogan: Perfume is dead. Long live perfume!

Etat Libre d’Orange, 69 Rue de Archives, 3^rd arrondissement, Paris. www.etatlibredorange.com

If you have any comments or suggestions please email Ulrich Proeschel